Ties and pocket squares: a guide to the details that complete the suit

A guide to ties and pocket squares: choosing silk, colour and width, how to fold the pocket square, and when an ascot is a better choice than a tie.

Journal · Guide

Ties and pocket squares: a guide to the details that complete the suit

A guide to ties and pocket squares: choosing silk, colour and width, how to fold the pocket square, and when an ascot is a better choice than a tie.

House of Vinterberg · Aug 05, 2026 · 3 min read

The jacket and trousers are the foundation, but it is the details that decide whether the whole reads as accidental or considered. A tie and a pocket square take up little room, but they are seen, and they move a suit from correct to personal. This guide is about choosing them with care.

The tie sets the tone

A tie in a tone that speaks to the suit gathers the expression and adds depth. It is not about matching colours precisely, but about tones that belong together. A navy suit carries a tie in deep burgundy or soft steel grey, where a grey suit takes more colour. The width should follow the jacket's lapel, so the two are in balance. A narrow tie against a wide lapel, or the reverse, disturbs more than it flatters.

One more stitch, and we're there.

Journal · Guide

Ties and pocket squares: a guide to the details that complete the suit

A guide to ties and pocket squares: choosing silk, colour and width, how to fold the pocket square, and when an ascot is a better choice than a tie.

Journal · Guide

Ties and pocket squares: a guide to the details that complete the suit

A guide to ties and pocket squares: choosing silk, colour and width, how to fold the pocket square, and when an ascot is a better choice than a tie.

House of Vinterberg · Aug 05, 2026 · 3 min read

The jacket and trousers are the foundation, but it is the details that decide whether the whole reads as accidental or considered. A tie and a pocket square take up little room, but they are seen, and they move a suit from correct to personal. This guide is about choosing them with care.

The tie sets the tone

A tie in a tone that speaks to the suit gathers the expression and adds depth. It is not about matching colours precisely, but about tones that belong together. A navy suit carries a tie in deep burgundy or soft steel grey, where a grey suit takes more colour. The width should follow the jacket's lapel, so the two are in balance. A narrow tie against a wide lapel, or the reverse, disturbs more than it flatters.

Silk above all

The material decides how the tie falls and catches the light. Silk brings a movement and a lustre that other materials do not imitate, and the knot comes out clean and firm without looking stiff. A hand-made silk tie also holds its shape better over time. For the lighter months, wool or linen can give a more muted, matte surface that suits the tones of summer.

The pocket square

The pocket square is a small detail, but it is clearly seen. A clean, flat fold gives a formal, restrained expression; a looser placement signals a more relaxed elegance. It should not match the tie precisely, on the contrary, a slight difference in colour or pattern reads as more considered than two identical. The material affects how the fold falls: silk slips and should be folded softly, while cotton and linen hold a sharper edge.

The bow tie and the ascot

For black tie, the bow tie is the right choice, ideally in silk and self-tied rather than pre-tied. For weddings and festive occasions, the ascot is a calm alternative to the tie, with a classic elegance that rests in itself and particularly suits lighter suits. The choice follows the occasion, not the other way around.

Setting the whole

Accessories should not be chosen in isolation from the suit. At the Showroom in Copenhagen, your personal designer helps set the whole, so colours, materials and proportions match your particular suit. You can see the range of ties, pocket squares and accessories, read our guide to men's suits, or book an appointment at the Showroom when you want to talk it through with a designer.

The details are small, but they are what people remember. When they land right, they lift a suit from correct to personal.

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