The men's dress code guide: black tie, weddings and the codes that matter

A dress code is not a rule for its own sake but a help: it tells you what is expected, so you can turn up dressed correctly without guessing. This guide covers the codes a man most often meets, from black tie to weddings and the everyday office, and what each one actually means.

Black tie

Black tie means a tuxedo. That is a black or midnight blue dinner jacket with a silk shawl or peak lapel, black trousers with a silk stripe, a white dress shirt, a black bow tie and black patent shoes. A midnight blue tuxedo often reads darker and more elegant than black under artificial light. Black tie is the most formal code you normally meet, and it belongs to galas, premieres and evening weddings.

Black tie optional

Black tie optional means a tuxedo is welcome but not required. If you own a tuxedo, it is a safe choice. Otherwise, wear a dark suit, ideally navy or charcoal, with a white shirt and a discreet tie. The aim is to meet the formal tone of the evening, whichever of the two routes you take.

The wedding guest

At a wedding you follow the tone of the day and whatever the couple has asked for. If nothing is stated, a dark wool suit is a safe starting point for most ceremonies, while a lighter suit or linen suits a summer or garden wedding. Avoid all black, which leans towards a funeral, unless the day is decidedly formal, and let the couple be the ones who stand out. We go deeper in our guide to the wedding suit.

Confirmations, celebrations and gala dinners

A confirmation or an ordinary celebration allows more colour and lightness than a gala dinner. Here a suit in a neutral or light colour with a shirt and possibly a tie works well. A gala dinner leans dark and formal, often close to black tie, so choose a dark suit or a tuxedo if the invitation calls for it.

Business and business casual

Business means a dark suit, a white or light blue shirt and a tie. Neutral, correct and calm, for meetings and representation. Business casual is a step down: the suit jacket over a shirt without a tie, or a blazer with smart trousers. The fit carries the expression once the tie is gone.

Cocktail

Cocktail sits between the formal and the relaxed, typically for receptions and afternoon parties. A dark or mid-tone suit with a shirt, with or without a tie, meets the code. There is room here for a personal detail such as a pocket square or a slightly more expressive cloth.

When no code is stated

If no dress code is given, dress for the occasion and the venue. A well-fitting dark suit is rarely wrong, and it is easier to dress down with an open collar than to dress up from too casual. When in doubt, it is better to be a touch too smart than too loose.

Meet the code with a suit that fits

A dress code becomes easy when the wardrobe holds the right pieces: a dark suit, a tuxedo for the formal, and a lighter suit for the brighter months. To go through it, you can meet your personal designer at the Showroom in Copenhagen, see our suits and tuxedos, or read about tailor-made suits. Book an appointment when you are ready.