The cloth is the first thing you feel and the last thing to give way. A well-chosen fabric falls correctly, holds its shape and suits the season and the occasions the suit is for. This guide helps you choose, not by what sounds impressive, but by what the suit needs to do.

Wool all year round

Wool is the base cloth of most suits, and for good reason. Worsted, the smooth, tightly combed wool, is the classic choice: elegant, durable and versatile from meeting to celebration. Merino wool has finer fibres, regulates temperature and feels soft against the skin, which makes it a calm starting point for the first, versatile suit. The Super number (110s, 120s, 130s) tells you how fine the fibre is, not how durable. 110s and 120s are robust everyday choices; the very high numbers are finer but more delicate and best for occasional wear.